{"id":9504,"date":"2014-08-12T23:10:02","date_gmt":"2014-08-12T21:10:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/?p=9504"},"modified":"2022-02-08T10:04:38","modified_gmt":"2022-02-08T08:04:38","slug":"quartier-romain-04","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/","title":{"rendered":"Quartier romain (4)"},"content":{"rendered":"<blockquote><p>En cinq rioni : <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-01\/\">1<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-02\/\">2<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-03.\">3<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/\">4<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-05\/\">5<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-9504 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campitelli.png' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campitelli-150x150.png\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campitelli-150x150.png 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campitelli-59x59.png 59w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_monti.png' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_monti-150x150.png\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_monti-150x150.png 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_monti-59x59.png 59w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campomarzio.png' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campomarzio-150x150.png\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campomarzio-150x150.png 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campomarzio-300x297.png 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campomarzio-59x59.png 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/rione_campomarzio.png 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Jour 7. R.XIII. Trastevere ; Q.XII. Gianicolense<\/h2>\n<p>Longue marche dans le <strong>Trastevere<\/strong>, depuis les quartiers anonymes mais vifs de la gare jusqu&rsquo;aux ruelles si pittoresques et tellement m\u00e9di\u00e9vales du nord. Belle place de Santa Maria Trastevere. Pris un bus au hasard, le 115, qui monte sur le <strong>Janicule<\/strong>. Et redescente. Jour o\u00f9 la jambe emp\u00eache.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3>Jour 8. R.XI. Sant&rsquo;Angelo ; R.X. Campitelli ; R.I. Monti ; R.IV. Campo Marzio<\/h2>\n<p>Retour pour motifs personnels au c\u0153ur romain de la ville. Je traverse le Foro Boario puis me d\u00e9cide pour les escaliers du <strong>Capitole<\/strong>. Les id\u00e9es se rassemblent tr\u00e8s lentement. Du temps pour remettre un nom sur les Dioscures, sur l&#8217;empereur \u00e0 cheval (n&rsquo;\u00e9tait-ce pas Tib\u00e8re qui \u00e9tait barbu ?), puis les rues les plus proches (aucune envie de d\u00e9penser des sous pour griller au soleil). Je retrouve ainsi de pr\u00e8s ces monuments toujours oubli\u00e9s : temple de Saturne, temple de Vespasien, arc de Septime-S\u00e9v\u00e8re, <em>Tabullarium<\/em>, <em>Tullianum<\/em>, basilique Julia&#8230; Cette colonne, \u00e0 quoi appartient-elle d\u00e9j\u00e0 ? Ce b\u00e2timent, qui frappe par sa taille modeste et son int\u00e9grit\u00e9, ce serait la Curie ?<\/p>\n<p><div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-9504 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0635.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0635-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0635-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0635-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0635-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0635.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0641.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0641-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0641-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0641-59x59.jpg 59w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0656.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<br \/>\n&nbsp;<br \/>\nEt puis on nous a tromp\u00e9 depuis des d\u00e9cennies, il faut dire : ce que nous voyons de la Rome romaine (pour ne parler que d&rsquo;elle) est d\u00e9j\u00e0 une reconstruction (m\u00eame parcellaire) et donc arbitraire (orient\u00e9e tout du moins) de ce que pouvait bien \u00eatre le secteur alors. Les b\u00e2timents ajout\u00e9s au fil du temps, les d\u00e9placements et r\u00e9cup\u00e9rations, les destructions et pillages, le temps des hommes en somme, tout cela a produit un forum imaginaire : est-ce que l&rsquo;arc de Septime S\u00e9v\u00e8re a c\u00f4toy\u00e9 l&rsquo;arc de Constantin ? <\/p>\n<p>Mais dans le m\u00eame temps, cet ensemble \u2014 si on veut bien y regarder objectivement \u2014\u00a0d&rsquo;une remarquable qualit\u00e9, est d&rsquo;une puissance \u00e9vocatrice incommensurable. Une vraie machine \u00e0 fiction. Un nid d&rsquo;histoires et d&rsquo;imagination. Je n&rsquo;entrerai pas sur le forum : je me fais fort de voir les monuments de l&rsquo;ext\u00e9rieur. Et puis il faudrait pouvoir visiter la Domus Aurea de N\u00e9ron, les souterrains infinis, le <em>Lapis Niger<\/em>, choses auxquelles h\u00e9las on n&rsquo;a pas acc\u00e8s.<\/p>\n<p>Je descends vers la prison de St Pierre (<em>Tullianum<\/em>) puis bifurque vers le forum de C\u00e9sar (je finirai le Foro Romano demain). Je jette un coup d&rsquo;\u0153il au forum de Trajan puis m&rsquo;\u00e9merveille un long moment sur la reproduction des sc\u00e8nes de la colonne homonyme sur un coin de la place. Mais d\u00e9j\u00e0, malgr\u00e9 l&rsquo;heure pr\u00e9coce, les familles, les glaces, les cris, les appareils photos envahissent la place.<\/p>\n<p><div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-9504 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0703.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0727.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0727-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0727-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0727-59x59.jpg 59w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[9504]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0734.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<br \/>\n&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Une nouveaut\u00e9 (dans la m\u00e9moire) les fouilles du m\u00e9tro C qui ont mis au jour un autre monument tardif, l&rsquo;Ath\u00e9n\u00e9e d&rsquo;Hadrien, esp\u00e8ce d&rsquo;Acad\u00e9mie de l&rsquo;\u00e9poque, mis au jour en 2007-2008 du fait des travaux de la sempiternelle Ligne C du m\u00e9tro. On ne voit rien bien s\u00fbr, mais penser qu&rsquo;une ville tellement remani\u00e9e puisse encore d\u00e9livrer des secrets est plaisant.<\/p>\n<p>Je retourne \u00e0 l&rsquo;Ara Sacra di <strong>Torre Argentina<\/strong>, mais la lumi\u00e8re n&rsquo;est plus bonne (on ne revient jamais sur ses pas). Je me rabats alors sur le th\u00e9\u00e2tre de Marcellus. Impossible bien s\u00fbr de remettre un nom sur le temple d&rsquo;Apollon Sosianus, et encore moins sur celui de Bellone (\u00ab\u00a0je sais m\u00eame plus c&rsquo;est qui\u00a0\u00bb).<\/p>\n<p>Je prendrai finalement un bus pour retrouver l&rsquo;<strong>Ara Pacis<\/strong>, autre destination du jour. Les trois ou quatre <em>rioni<\/em> ainsi travers\u00e9s l&rsquo;ont \u00e9t\u00e9 partiellement et en h\u00e2te ; il faudra revenir.<\/p>\n<p>Je voulais voir l&rsquo;Ara Pacis car je n&rsquo;\u00e9tais pas revenu depuis la cr\u00e9ation du \u00ab\u00a0mus\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb la recouvrant, r\u00e9alis\u00e9 par Richard Meier et compagnie. Devant, piazza Augusto Imperatore le mausol\u00e9e dudit Octavien divinis\u00e9. Autour des immeubles du plus pur style rationaliste (euph\u00e9misme pour ne pas dire fasciste), assez \u00e9l\u00e9gants du reste.<\/p>\n<p>L&rsquo;attention du pouvoir sur ces restes est strat\u00e9giquement \u00e9vidente : mausol\u00e9e d&rsquo;un chef d&rsquo;\u00e9tat dictatorial divinis\u00e9 et l&rsquo;autel attenant, voulu par lui, d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 la paix. Les travaux du mus\u00e9e sont \u00e9galement les premiers de cette ampleur \u00e0 Rome (cr\u00e9ation d&rsquo;un site d\u00e9di\u00e9) depuis la chute du fascisme.<\/p>\n<p>Je m&rsquo;\u00e9tonne d&rsquo;ailleurs de la ressemblance entre l&rsquo;\u0153uvre de Meier et de l&rsquo;ancienne couverture r\u00e9alis\u00e9 par le pouvoir fasciste \u00e0 travers Vittorio Ballio Morpurgo. Mais sans doute-est-ce d\u00fb pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment \u00e0 la clef donn\u00e9e par la fonction et le r\u00f4le de cet ensemble urbain. Ce qui m&rsquo;intrigue \u00e9galement, c&rsquo;est de comprendre pourquoi je suis moi-m\u00eame si fascin\u00e9 par la figure d&rsquo;Auguste (alors que l&rsquo;\u0153uvre et la pens\u00e9e de Nicolas Sarkozy, pour citer un nom au hasard, ne m&rsquo;int\u00e9resse au contraire pas du tout). Il est vrai que le livre de Bertina\/de Roeck\/Gallet\/Michaud, <em>Anastylose<\/em>, d\u00e9j\u00e0 cit\u00e9 ici de nombreuses fois, est venu combler tout un espace en moi \u2014\u00a0et ce livre traite pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment de l&rsquo;Ara Pacis. C&rsquo;est un point sur lequel j&rsquo;engagerai ma vigilance.<\/p>\n<p><div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-9504 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/img_0653\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0653-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0653-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0653-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0653-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0653-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0653.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/img_0655\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0655-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0655-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0655-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0655-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0655-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0655.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/img_0657\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0657-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0657-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0657-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0657-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0657-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0657.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/img_0803\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0803-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0803-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0803-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0803-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0803-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0803.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/img_0804\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0804-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0804-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0804-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0804-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0804-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0804.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/img_0805\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0805-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0805-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0805-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0805-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0805-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0805.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<br \/>\n&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>J&rsquo;aime bien le film de Tinto Brass et soi-disant d\u00e9figur\u00e9 par Bob Guccione et Giancarlo Lui (sc\u00e9nario Gore Vidal), <em>Caligula<\/em>, m\u00eame si et peut-\u00eatre parce qu&rsquo;il est plein de d\u00e9fauts. La figure de l&#8217;empereur tout puissant est interchangeable, je suppose, depuis Auguste et jusqu&rsquo;au douzi\u00e8me, Domitien, dans la tradition issue de Su\u00e9tone \u2014\u00a0et dans cette liste ne figurent ni Hadrien, ni Marc-Aur\u00e8le, ni Trajan, ni Caracalla, ni Septime-S\u00e9v\u00e8re, ni Diocl\u00e9tien, ni Constantin, pour ne citer que quelques noms c\u00e9l\u00e8bres : et cela aussi \u00e7a peut questionner, notamment au regard de leur empreinte urbaine. Pouvoir, et pouvoir faisant vaciller la raison, cruaut\u00e9, guerre, organisation territoriale et superstition&#8230; il y a l\u00e0 bien s\u00fbr un th\u00e8me largement \u00e9tudi\u00e9, sur l&rsquo;origine des mouvements populistes (mais il serait plus pertinent de dire d\u00e9magogues), sur le concept de nation, ou sur le simple usage du pouvoir autocrate.<\/p>\n<p>Dans ces conditions la ville devient une application (ou un outil) de ce pouvoir \u2014 et en tout \u00e9tat de cause, Rome et les cit\u00e9s antiques nous montrent la faible distance qui s\u00e9pare la lumi\u00e8re de l&rsquo;ombre, le public du priv\u00e9, le personnel du collectif.<\/p>\n<p>C&rsquo;est sans doute ce qui fait de la ville une organicit\u00e9 : un organisme vivant, sexu\u00e9, coloniaire, immortel. Et moi l\u00e0-dedans, je recompose des itin\u00e9raires, et d&rsquo;un tas de fragments bris\u00e9s par la m\u00e9moire, je remonte le tissu arlequin d&rsquo;une ville o\u00f9 j&rsquo;ai habit\u00e9.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-9504 gallery-columns-4 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0624-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0624-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0624-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0624-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0624.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0627-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0627-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0627-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0627-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0627.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0623-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0623-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0623-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0623-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0623.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0621-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0621-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0621-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0621-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0621.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0629-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0629-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0629-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0629-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0629.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0628-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0628-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0628-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0628-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0628.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0619-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0619-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0619-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0619-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0619.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0620-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0620-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0620-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0620-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0620.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0617-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0617-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0617-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0617-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0617.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0618-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0618-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0618-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0618-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0618.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0625-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0625-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0625-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0625-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0625.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0626-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0626-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0626-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0626-59x59.jpg 59w, http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/IMG_0626.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>En cinq rioni : <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-01\/\">1<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-02\/\">2<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-03.\">3<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-04\/\">4<\/a> &#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/quartier-romain-05\/\">5<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>En cinq rioni : 1 &#8211; 2 &#8211; 3 &#8211; 4 &#8211; 5 &nbsp; &nbsp; Jour 7. R.XIII. Trastevere ; Q.XII. Gianicolense Longue marche dans le Trastevere, depuis les quartiers anonymes mais vifs de la gare jusqu&rsquo;aux ruelles si pittoresques et tellement m\u00e9di\u00e9vales du nord. Belle place de Santa Maria Trastevere. Pris un bus au&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2614,106],"tags":[1188,3010,6,606,3006,3011,3003,3007,303,3005,1177,444,3004,1193,1425,318,2997,478,2483],"class_list":["post-9504","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-quartiers-romains","category-vers-le-dehors","tag-anastylose","tag-ara-pacis","tag-arno-bertina","tag-bastien-gallet","tag-bob-guccione","tag-derive","tag-forum-romain","tag-giancarlo-lui","tag-italie","tag-ludovoc-michaud","tag-marche","tag-memoire","tag-richard-meier","tag-roma","tag-sciatique","tag-tinto-brass","tag-trastevere","tag-ville","tag-yoan-de-roeck"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9504","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9504"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9504\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16161,"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9504\/revisions\/16161"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9504"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9504"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.amboilati.org\/chantier\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9504"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}